We all know that the skincare and beauty industries have not been historically developed with Black people in mind. We also know, however, that Black folks have always been resourceful innovators when it comes to getting what we need. From using shea butter to moisturize our skin, African black soap made from plantain skins and cocoa pods to cleanse and remove impurities, and treating Black skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis with neem oil, our skincare rituals — beginning in ancient Africa — have laid the groundwork for Black, and mainstream, skincare as we know it today.
The history of Black skin care in the United States is complicated and intimately connected with the Black freedom struggle. Black skin care history includes stories of entrepreneurs who fought against systemic oppression while developing innovative products to meet the skin and hair concerns of Black consumers—not only contributing to the beauty industry but also empowering the Black community at large. Here’s a closer look at the journey of Black skincare in America.
The Early History of Beauty: Beauty as a Form of Resistance
During slavery, Black people had very limited access to skin or hair care products. Despite these limitations, they used natural ingredients such as shea butter, palm oil, and home remedies to take care of their skin and hair. These practices were passed down from one generation to another and formed the basis of modern Black skincare regimens.
At the turn of the 20th century, several visionary entrepreneurs and pioneers started to develop products that met the skin and hair needs of Black people. These pioneers changed the beauty industry and left a legacy that continues to this day.
Born in 1869, Annie Malone is one of the earliest known Black businesswomen in the skincare industry. Her company, Poro Products, specialized in haircare and skincare products tailored to Black consumers. Malone’s success enabled her to establish a thriving business, training thousands of women as Poro agents and giving them financial freedom, according to the National Museum of African American History and Culture.
Madam C.J. Walker, a former Poro agent, built on the achievements of Malone. She created her own line of hair and skin care products for Black women and became the first Black female millionaire in the United States. Walker’s focus was not only on her products but on empowering Black women. She conducted workshops, conventions, and training sessions with the aim of teaching women about financial stability.
The Middle of the 20th Century: Living in Segregation and Lack of Representation
During the mid-20th century, while the Civil Rights Movement was in full swing, beauty and skincare became a way of protesting and loving oneself. This period also saw the birth of other Black-owned beauty companies and businesses, including those launched by Black entrepreneurs like Anthony Overton. The first generation of dermatologists for Black skin, including Dr. John A. Kenney Jr. and Dr. Theodore K. Lawless, made their mark during this time.
Dr. Lawless, a dermatologist and philanthropist, focused on treating Black skin conditions that disproportionately affect our community. As a renowned skin specialist, his work tackled issues like leprosy, syphilis, and other skin diseases, as well as pioneering the use of radium to treat cancer.
BlackLove.com Related Articles:
Can Stress Permanently Damage Your Skin? What to Expect Over Time
OUI the People Founder Karen Young on the Beauty in Black Skin
“Close your eyes and stick a pin in a map of the USA. Wherever the pin lands, you can go there and probably be the only African American dermatologist,” Dr. Kenney once said, according to Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
A graduate of Howard University, Dr. Kenney made significant contributions to the field by educating other dermatologists for Black skin about the unique challenges and skin conditions Black patients face, including hyperpigmentation, keloid formation, and conditions like eczema and psoriasis that may present differently in darker skin. By the time of his death in 2003, Dr. Kenney had trained approximately one-third of the 300 Black dermatologists practicing nationwide, according to Washington Post.
The Black Is Beautiful Movement and Beyond
The 1960s and ‘70s saw the rise of the Black Is Beautiful movement, which celebrated natural Black beauty and rejected Eurocentric beauty standards. This era also rekindled interest in skin care products for Black women and natural ingredients.
If you wanted to find a product for deeper skin tones, you couldn’t go wrong with Fashion Fair.. Established by Eunice Johnson in 1973, the brand became a go-to company for Black women across the globe because the products were formulated for darker complexions.
Black Skin Care in the Present: Innovation and Representation.
Today, the impact of early skincare pioneers is evident in the success of the Black skincare and beauty industry. Black entrepreneurs are developing new products and formulas, which are often organic, environmentally friendly, and targeted at common issues such as dry and itchy skin.
Since launching in 2017, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty has been a game changer due to foundation shades that suit almost every skin tone. The brand’s success underscored the demand for representation and proved the profitability of inclusivity.
Modern skincare experts like Shani Darden and Nyakio Grieco are continuing the conversation around Black skin conditions and overall skin health. Darden, a celebrity aesthetician, offers science-backed solutions, including products aimed at treating eczema and atopic dermatitis. Grieco’s Nyakio Beauty blends modern skincare with traditional African ingredients for holistic healing.
The history of Black skin care is a story of struggle, creativity, and community strength. Today’s skincare professionals—whether they’re dermatologists or estheticians for Black skin—are building on this tradition while tackling issues like colorism and lack of representation. Their inclusive products address concerns that uniquely affect Black skin, such as atopic dermatitis, keloids, and hyperpigmentation. Dorion Renaud’s Buttah Skin offers products made specifically for melanin-rich skin, while Camille Rose uses natural ingredients to soothe dryness and eczema.
As the industry continues to evolve, one thing remains clear: Black skincare is not just about beauty—it’s about identity, self-expression, and pride. And with more access to estheticians for Black skin and the best skin care products for Black women, we’re not only caring for our skin—we’re reclaiming our narrative.
JOIN THE CONVERSATION