We all know that the skincare and beauty industries have not been historically developed with Black people in mind. We also know, however, that Black folks have always been resourceful innovators when it comes to getting what we need. From using shea butter to moisturize our skin, African black soap made from plantain skins and cocoa pods to cleanse and remove impurities, and treating skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis with neem oil, our skincare rituals — beginning in ancient Africa — have laid the groundwork for Black, and mainstream, skincare as we know it today.
The history of Black skincare in the United States is complicated and intimately connected with the Black freedom struggle. Black skincare entrepreneurs fought against systemic oppression while developing innovative products to meet the skin and hair concerns — not only contributing to the beauty industry but also to the Black community at large. Here’s a closer look at the journey of Black skincare in America.
The Early History of Beauty: Beauty as a Form of Resistance
During slavery, Black people had very limited access to skin or hair care products. Despite these limitations, they used natural ingredients such as shea butter, palm oil, and home remedies to take care of their skin and hair. These practices were passed down from one generation to another and formed the basis of modern Black skincare regimens.
At the turn of the 20th century, several visionary entrepreneurs and pioneers started to develop products that met the skin and hair needs of the Black people. These pioneers changed the beauty industry and left a legacy that continues to this day.
Born in 1869, Annie Malone she is one of the earliest known Black business women in the skincare industry. Her company, Poro Products, specialized in haircare and skincare products tailored to Black consumers. Malone’s success enabled her to establish a successful business, training thousands of women as Poro agents and giving them financial freedom, according to the National Museum of African American History and Culture.
Madam C.J. Walker, a former Poro agent, built on the achievements of Malone. She created her own line of hair and skincare products and became the first Black female millionaire in the United States. Walker’s focus was not only on her products, but on empowering Black women. She conducted workshops, conventions and training sessions with the aim of teaching women about financial stability.
The Middle of the 20th Century: Living in Segregation and Lack of Representation
During the mid-20th century while the Civil Rights Movement was in full swing, beauty and skincare became a way of protesting and loving oneself. This period also saw the birth of other Black-owned beauty companies and businesses, including those that were owned by Black entrepreneurs like Anthony Overton. The first generation of Black dermatologists, including Dr. John A. Kenney Jr. and Dr. Theodore K. Lawless, made their mark during this time.
Dr. Lawless, a dermatologist and philanthropist, focused on treating skin disorders that affect the Black community. As a renowned skin specialist, his work focused on conditions like leprosy, syphilis, and other skin diseases, as well as pioneering the use of radium to treat cancer.
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“Close your eyes and stick a pin in a map of the USA. Wherever the pin lands, you can go there and probably be the only African American dermatologist,” Dr. Kenney once said, according to Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
A graduate of Howard University, Dr. Kenney made significant contributions to the field by educating other dermatologists about the unique challenges and skin conditions Black patients face, including hyperpigmentation, keloid formation, and conditions like eczema and psoriasis that may present differently in darker skin. By the time of his death in 2003, Dr. Kenney had trained approximately one-third of the 300 Black dermatologists practicing nationwide, according to the Washington Post.
The Black Is Beautiful Movement and Beyond
The 1960s and ‘70s saw the rise of the Black Is Beautiful movement, which celebrated natural Black beauty and rejected Eurocentric beauty standards. This era also rekindled interest in skincare products for dark skin and natural ingredients.
If you wanted to find a product for deeper skin tones, you couldn’t go wrong with Fashion Fair. Established by Eunice Johnson in 1973, the brand gained popularity and became a go-to company for Black women across the globe because the products were formulated for the deeper complexion.
Black Skin Care in the Present: Innovation and Representation.
Today, the impact of early skincare pioneers is evident in the success of the Black skincare and beauty industry. Black entrepreneurs are developing new products and formulas, which are often organic, environmentally friendly and targeted at common issues such as dry and itchy skin.
Since the launch of the brand in 2017, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty has been a game changer in the beauty industry due to foundation shades that suit almost every skin type. The brand’s success underscored the demand for representation and proved the profitability of inclusivity.
Modern skincare entrepreneurs like Shani Darden and Nyakio Grieco are also continuing the conversation around Black skincare. Darden, a celebrity aesthetician, provides science-backed skincare solutions, including products aimed at addressing eczema treatment and atopic dermatitis. Grieco’s Nyakio Beauty is based on traditional African ingredients and is aimed at overall skincare and health.
The history of Black skincare in the United States is a story of struggle, creativity, and strength of community. Today’s Black skincare entrepreneurs are building upon a tradition of empowerment while also tackling issues like colorism and absence of representation. Their inclusive products address common conditions that impact the Black community, such as atopic dermatitis. Dorion Renaud’s Buttah Skin is a company that offers products for melanin rich skin, while Camille Rose is a brand that addresses dryness and sensitivity, using natural ingredients for conditions like eczema and itchy skin. As the industry continues to evolve, one thing remains clear: Black skincare is not just about beauty—it’s about identity, self-expression, and pride.
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